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From ancient Persian mines to Victorian parlors, turquoise has captivated humanity for over 5,000 years. This sky-blue gemstone tells stories of empires, artisans, and the enduring human desire to capture the color of heaven itself.
Antique turquoise jewelry possesses a romance that modern pieces simply cannot replicate. When you hold a Victorian turquoise brooch or an Edwardian turquoise and diamond ring, you're not merely holding a beautiful object—you're holding a fragment of history, a testament to craftsmanship, and a connection to the earth itself.
Turquoise is one of the oldest gemstones known to humanity. Ancient Egyptians mined and crafted it into jewelry and ceremonial objects as early as 3,000 BCE, making it one of the first gemstones ever used by humankind. The stone's vivid blue-green hues have symbolized everything from protection and healing to status and spirituality across cultures and continents.
Unlike many contemporary gemstones that can be created in laboratories, genuine antique turquoise carries within it the geological story of its formation—a process taking millions of years. Each stone formed where copper-rich groundwater seeped into rock formations in arid regions, creating the distinctive colors and matrix patterns that make every piece unique.
For centuries, Persian turquoise (from modern-day Iran, particularly the Nishapur region) was considered the finest in the world. The legendary sky-blue stones from Persia became so coveted that the term "turquoise" itself derives from the French "pierre tourques," meaning "Turkish stone," referencing the trade routes through which Persian turquoise reached Europe during the Crusades in the 11th century.
Persian turquoise is characterized by its intense, robin's-egg blue color with minimal matrix (the brown or black veining from the host rock). This pure blue color became the benchmark against which all other turquoise is measured. Antique Persian turquoise jewelry, often featuring carved stones inlaid with gold, represents some of the most valuable turquoise pieces in the world today.
The ancient mines of Persia have largely been depleted, making surviving antique Persian turquoise jewelry extraordinarily rare and valuable. These pieces carry not only aesthetic beauty but also historical significance spanning millennia.
In the United States, turquoise deposits have been used since at least 200 BCE. Native American cultures, particularly the Pueblo peoples and later the Navajo, developed sophisticated turquoise-working techniques long before European contact.
The integration of turquoise with silversmithing began in the 1880s when Navajo artisans learned metalworking from Spanish settlers. This marriage of silver and turquoise became iconic, creating a distinctly American aesthetic that remains beloved today. Authentic antique Navajo turquoise jewelry from the early 20th century—particularly pieces made between 1900 and 1940—are highly collectible and can command significant prices.
Among American turquoise sources, none is more famous than Arizona's Sleeping Beauty mine. Named for the mountain range that resembles a sleeping woman with arms crossed, this mine produced some of the purest, most consistently sky-blue turquoise ever discovered.
Sleeping Beauty turquoise gained international acclaim for its clear, robin's-egg blue color with little to no matrix—a characteristic that rivaled even Persian turquoise. During its peak production from the 1970s through the early 2000s, Sleeping Beauty turquoise became a favorite among jewelers worldwide, particularly in Europe where matrix-free turquoise is preferred.
The mine's closure in 2012 marked the end of an era. Today, genuine Sleeping Beauty turquoise from vintage and antique jewelry has become increasingly valuable, as no new material is being produced. Pieces containing Sleeping Beauty turquoise from before the closure represent finite treasures.
The Victorian era witnessed a resurgence of turquoise's popularity, particularly in the late Victorian period. Queen Victoria herself was an enthusiast of colorful gemstones, and turquoise featured prominently in jewelry of the time.
Victorian turquoise jewelry is characterized by:
Victorian turquoise pieces often combined the stone with other gems popular in the era—garnets, amethysts, and pearls—creating colorful, sentimental jewels that told stories of love, loss, and life's milestones.
The Edwardian era brought a dramatic shift in jewelry aesthetics. Gone were the heavier Victorian pieces; in their place emerged delicate, lace-like creations that seemed to float on air.
Edwardian turquoise jewelry features:
An Edwardian turquoise and diamond pendant exemplifies the era's refinement—the vibrant blue of the turquoise providing a stunning contrast to the icy sparkle of diamonds, all held in gossamer platinum settings that seem impossibly delicate yet remain remarkably durable.
The Art Deco period embraced modernity, geometry, and bold color contrasts. Turquoise found new life in this era, particularly in combination with black onyx, coral, and diamonds.
Art Deco turquoise jewelry showcases:
Art Deco turquoise rings often feature striking geometric arrangements—perhaps a central turquoise surrounded by trapezoid-cut diamonds and onyx accents, all in platinum or white gold. These pieces embody the optimism and sophistication of the Jazz Age.
Not all turquoise is created equal. Understanding the factors that determine quality and value is essential for collectors and buyers of antique turquoise jewelry.
The most valuable turquoise displays a pure, intense sky-blue color often described as "robin's egg blue" or "Persian blue." This color results from copper content in the stone. Stones with a greenish tint (due to iron content) are generally less valuable, though some collectors appreciate the variation.
High-quality turquoise exhibits:
Matrix refers to the brown, black, or golden veining from the host rock (typically limonite or sandstone) that remains in turquoise. The presence and pattern of matrix is highly subjective:
Turquoise ranges from 5 to 6 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Natural, untreated turquoise with low porosity is the most valuable and durable. However, much turquoise is naturally soft and porous, requiring treatment.
Natural turquoise: No treatment beyond cutting and polishing. This is the most desirable and valuable form, especially in antique jewelry where it has survived decades or centuries without treatment.
Stabilized turquoise: Treated with resin or polymer to harden the stone and prevent color changes. Most modern turquoise is stabilized. In antique pieces, the stone is often naturally hard enough to remain stable without treatment.
Reconstituted or composite turquoise: Ground turquoise mixed with binding agents. This is considered the least valuable and is rarely found in genuine antique jewelry.
The source of turquoise significantly impacts value:
Highest value: Persian (Iranian) turquoise, Sleeping Beauty (Arizona), Lander Blue (Nevada), Bisbee (Arizona)
High value: Kingman (Arizona), Morenci (Arizona), Cerrillos (New Mexico), Number Eight (Nevada)
Collectible: Various historic American Southwest mines, each with distinctive characteristics
Antique jewelry from established mines, especially those no longer producing (like Sleeping Beauty or many Persian mines), carries premium value.
Genuine antique turquoise jewelry will show construction methods consistent with its era:
Authentic antique turquoise often displays:
Be wary of:
Period hallmarks help authenticate and date pieces:
Authentic antique jewelry develops a patina over time—a natural darkening of the metal that adds character. While silver can be polished, many collectors prefer the original patina on antique pieces, as it speaks to the jewelry's age and journey through time.
The market for antique turquoise jewelry remains strong, driven by several factors:
Rarity: Many historic turquoise mines have closed, making antique pieces containing their stones increasingly rare. The closure of Sleeping Beauty mine in 2012 has already driven up prices for jewelry containing its distinctive blue turquoise.
Craftsmanship: The hand-fabrication techniques used in antique jewelry cannot be replicated economically today. Each piece represents hundreds of hours of skilled work.
Sustainability: As consumers become more conscious of mining's environmental impact, antique jewelry offers an ethical alternative—beauty without new extraction.
Cultural significance: Native American turquoise jewelry, particularly antique Navajo pieces from the early 20th century, carries both artistic and cultural value.
Turquoise is relatively soft and porous, requiring gentle care to preserve its beauty through the generations.
Do:
Don't:
The safest cleaning method for antique turquoise jewelry:
For metal components, consult a professional jeweler, as aggressive cleaning can diminish the desirable patina on antique pieces.
Each piece of antique turquoise jewelry is a small museum you can wear. A Victorian turquoise brooch might have been pinned to the bodice of a woman attending a opera in 1890s London. An Art Deco ring could have sparkled on the hand of a flapper dancing the Charleston in a Parisian nightclub.
No two pieces of antique turquoise jewelry are identical. The combination of hand-fabrication, natural stone variation, and the patina of age ensures that your piece is truly one-of-a-kind.
In an era increasingly concerned with sustainable consumption, antique jewelry represents the ultimate in recycling—preserving beauty and craftsmanship rather than demanding new resources.
Quality antique turquoise jewelry has shown steady appreciation over time, particularly pieces from closed mines or by renowned makers. Unlike fashion jewelry that quickly loses value, fine antique pieces tend to increase in worth as they become rarer.
Antique jewelry represents a level of hand-craftsmanship increasingly rare in our automated world. Owning and wearing these pieces helps preserve traditional jewelry-making arts.
The best collections are built on genuine passion rather than pure investment strategy. Begin with pieces that resonate with you aesthetically and emotionally. Do you love the romantic sensibility of Victorian jewelry? The geometric glamour of Art Deco? The spiritual significance of Native American pieces?
