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Antique stickpins, with their delicate craftsmanship and rich history, are a captivating piece of jewelry that has stood the test of time. These small yet intricate adornments have graced the lapels of gentlemen and the hats of ladies for centuries, offering a glimpse into the fashion and culture of bygone eras. Today, they remain a cherished accessory, both for collectors and those wishing to add a touch of vintage flair to their outfits.
Stickpins trace their roots to the late 18th century, when they were primarily used to secure cravats and other neckwear1. Handmade in their earliest forms, they were often adorned with a single gemstone, pearl, or cluster of stones—subtle yet elegant indicators of the wearer’s social standing. High-quality materials and refined craftsmanship were paramount in these early pieces, reflecting the wealth and status of their owners.
A pivotal moment in the production of stickpins came in 1832, when John Ireland Howe patented his pin-making machine in the United States2. This innovation revolutionized manufacturing by reducing production costs and boosting availability. Suddenly, owning a fashionable stickpin wasn’t just the privilege of the elite; a broader segment of society could now partake in the trend.
As the 19th century progressed, stickpins evolved alongside changing fashion sensibilities. Men continued to use them for securing cravats and ties, while women began incorporating stickpins into their attire, particularly for securing scarves and adorning lapels. During the Victorian era, stickpins enjoyed great popularity among sporting women. Motifs such as horses, foxes, horns, tennis rackets, and hunting dogs were especially common, reflecting the era’s fascination with outdoor pursuits.
One of the most appealing aspects of antique stickpins is their incredible variety of materials. Gold and silver, often embellished with gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies, feature prominently in many designs. Pearls and semi-precious stones such as turquoise were also popular choices. During the Art Nouveau period (circa 1890–1910), elaborate enamel work brought vibrant colors and intricate details to these tiny masterpieces, while the Art Deco era (1920s–1930s) introduced geometric shapes and white gold settings that emphasized bold lines and striking symmetry3.
For collectors, antique stickpins offer a delightful journey through history and artistry. If you’re considering starting or expanding a collection, keep these points in mind:
Condition
Examine each stickpin carefully for any signs of damage or repair. Original, well-preserved pieces tend to hold higher value.
Maker’s Marks and Hallmarks
Look for hallmarks or maker’s marks—often found on pin stems or the backs of pin heads—to verify authenticity and origin.
Design and Craftsmanship
Focus on the intricacy and quality of the design. Unusual shapes, unique motifs, and fine workmanship often command premium prices among collectors.
Provenance
A stickpin with a documented history or association with a notable person or event can carry significant prestige and value.
Jeff Kravitz/Film Magic
While stickpins may not be as ubiquitous as they once were, they can still make a statement in contemporary fashion. Consider these creative ways to style them:
Lapels and Ties
A single stickpin—or a small cluster—can bring elegance to a suit lapel or a tie, adding a touch of vintage sophistication for formal occasions.
Hats and Scarves
Use a stickpin to secure a scarf or accentuate a hat. It’s an effortless way to infuse your ensemble with old-world charm.
Repurposing Antique Stickpins
If you adore the design but aren’t sure how to wear it, consider having a jeweler transform your stickpin into a brooch, pendant, or ring. This keeps the aesthetic alive while making it easier to incorporate into modern wardrobes.
Antique stickpins are more than decorative accessories; they are miniature time capsules of fashion, art, and cultural history. Whether you’re a passionate collector or simply drawn to their timeless charm, these beautiful pieces continue to captivate, offering endless possibilities for personal style and historical exploration.
References:
Victoria and Albert Museum. “Late 18th-century Men’s Neckwear,” Fashioning Fashion exhibit, 2018. ↩
Howe, John Ireland. Pin-Making Machine Patent (U.S. Patent No. X7,009). Washington, D.C.: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, 1832. ↩
Levine, M. (2005). Art Nouveau and Art Deco Jewelry: A History of Decorative Arts, 1890–1930. New York: Art & Design Press. ↩
